The Hair Chart
Episode Description
In this episode, the hosts discuss Andre Walker's famous "hair chart", originally created to market his hair product line. The chart, which categorizes four types of natural hair and their sub-types, has transcended its commercial purpose and influenced how some African-Americans perceive hair. However, it also faces criticism rooted in American history. This episode is a collaboration with The Stoop, a podcast highlighting stories from the black diaspora.
Ideabrix Summary
The '303- The Hair Chart' episode of '99% Invisible' delves into the complex relationship between African Americans and their hair, a subject rich with historical significance and personal identity. The episode begins with a nod to Oprah Winfrey's iconic, ever-changing hairstyles, maintained by her trusted stylist, Andre Walker. Walker, who worked with Oprah for decades, is known not only for his celebrity styling but also for creating a hair typing system in the 1990s to market his line of hair care products. This system, known as the hair chart, categorizes natural hair types into four main types, from straight (Type 1) to ***** (Type 4), with subtypes within each category. The chart was initially a tool to help consumers choose products but has since become a widely referenced guide within the black community.
The narrative then shifts to the personal experience of producer Leela Day, who, after years of chemically relaxing her hair, decided to go natural while living in Cuba. She describes the 'big chop' and the subsequent journey of learning to manage her natural hair texture, which was a significant cultural shift that affected how others perceived her. Day's story is a gateway to the broader discussion of how African Americans have historically been pressured to conform to European beauty standards, often at the expense of their health and comfort.
The episode explores the painful history of hair within the black community, from the use of hot combs and chemical relaxers to the 'good hair' versus 'bad hair' dichotomy rooted in slavery. It discusses the evolution of black hair care, from the political statement of the Afro in the 1960s civil rights movement to the fun, product-heavy Jerry Curl of the 1980s. The episode also touches on the impact of Chris Rock's documentary 'Good Hair' on the decline of relaxer use and the rise of the natural hair movement.
However, the hair chart itself is not without controversy. Some critics argue that it perpetuates a hierarchy within the natural hair community, favoring looser curl patterns over tighter ones. The episode concludes with an examination of the chart's unintended consequences, including how it has influenced the way natural hair is discussed and styled, often emphasizing the transformation of ***** hair to looser curls, rather than celebrating its natural state.
The narrative then shifts to the personal experience of producer Leela Day, who, after years of chemically relaxing her hair, decided to go natural while living in Cuba. She describes the 'big chop' and the subsequent journey of learning to manage her natural hair texture, which was a significant cultural shift that affected how others perceived her. Day's story is a gateway to the broader discussion of how African Americans have historically been pressured to conform to European beauty standards, often at the expense of their health and comfort.
The episode explores the painful history of hair within the black community, from the use of hot combs and chemical relaxers to the 'good hair' versus 'bad hair' dichotomy rooted in slavery. It discusses the evolution of black hair care, from the political statement of the Afro in the 1960s civil rights movement to the fun, product-heavy Jerry Curl of the 1980s. The episode also touches on the impact of Chris Rock's documentary 'Good Hair' on the decline of relaxer use and the rise of the natural hair movement.
However, the hair chart itself is not without controversy. Some critics argue that it perpetuates a hierarchy within the natural hair community, favoring looser curl patterns over tighter ones. The episode concludes with an examination of the chart's unintended consequences, including how it has influenced the way natural hair is discussed and styled, often emphasizing the transformation of ***** hair to looser curls, rather than celebrating its natural state.
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